Leo Laksi’s Bangkok And Back

Interrogation room at S21 Security Prison.

One of the most emotional sights to visit while in Phnom Penh, Cambodia is the Tuol Sleng Genocide Musuem.  This venue was formerly a high school that was converted by the Khmer Rouge in 1975 to Security Prison “S21″ to house the mainly  middle-class and educated segment of society for interrogation and torture.  The Khmer Rouge believed that educated city-dwellers were exploiters of society and of the working, mainly agrarian, classes.  There was a forced exodus from the cities and larger towns to the countryside.

Those rounded up for interrogation and torture included whole families.  One of the difficult sights at the museum is the photographs of those rounded up and imprisoned.  Not only do you see the frightened faces of men and women, you also see the faces of children.  Beside the photographs, you can view the cells where the victims were imprisoned, torture instruments and human bones including skulls.  Although grotesque in some ways,  the museum is invaluable in making sure we don’t forget what happened thirty years ago.  In depicting gruesome inhumanity, it reminds visitors that we should not be complacent in the face of such crimes against humanity.

Photos taken with a Nikon D700 and Nikkor 24-70mm f/2.8 zoom lens.

Interrogation room at S21 Security Prison.

Photos of inmates, tortured and murdered.

Reflection of whom.

Photo exhibition.

Makeshift prison cell in classroom.

Old woman after a day's work.

As photographers, tourists are sometimes bound to tourist attractions.  It’s just the nature of traveling.  We all do it.  We want to capture images that are easily identified with the destination.  In Cambodia, people usually capture Angkor Wat, the killing fields and perhaps the Tonle Sap, (the largest natural lake in Southeast Asia and one of the world’s wonders for its reverse flow depending on the season).

In my trips to Cambodia, I find the tourist attractions taking a backseat to shooting the people in their natural environment.  On this particular trip I spent several hours in rice patties and farms capturing people going about their everyday tasks.  From tending the crops to planting rice, the photography came alive for me.  It was also a chance to interact with people, people that you will find are very friendly, accommodating, and dignified.  This kind of interaction may transform your trip from a routine to a magical journey.

Photos taken with a Nikon D700 and Nikkor 80-200mm f/2.8 zoom lens.

A shy and friendly smile.

Hard at work in the hot sun.

Covered at work.

Getting water from the lake.

Older man with water cans.

Along the way

Like lots of cities in Southeast Asia, Phnom Penh has many modes of transportation.  It doesn’t have light rail or subways like some cities, but it does have its own means of efficient travel.  And there’s no telling what you will see when you’re traveling the roads of Cambodia.

One of my favorite activities is to ride around town in a tuk tuk and just check out the scene.  From street level you gain a view of a town that is different from the taxi or a bus.  Street level means you’re taking it all in.  The view, the heat, the smells.  Good and bad.

On the move

Lap of luxury

Walk on by

Youthful spirit

Lost in thought

Here it comes!

I was walking down Sisowath along the Tonle Sap when I spotted this elephant walking down the road.  It seemed like a normal sight as no one was particularly taken aback by the beautiful animal.  Traffic was heavily congested behind it but this did not appear to bother the elephant.  As the elephant approached me, I backed up.  No one else bothered. And just as soon as I saw the creature it disappeared into the congestion.

Sisowath Quay

This area of Phnom Penh is rich with subjects to photograph.  It is vibrant with life to the extent that one could fill up a memory card in the blink of the eye.  Lasting memories for sure.

I would recommend taking the two kilometer walk from the outdoor market near the Quay Hotel to the Sunway Hotel  to take in life along the Tonle Sap.

Closer

Out of the way

I see you

Leading the parade

Into the distance

Lasting memory

Alternate means of transportation

As you can imagine, Buddhism plays an important role in Cambodian society.  Whereever you go, you will see monks coming and going.  Monks are a good subject for photography and are very accessible.  Phnom Penh also has many temples that are also good subjects for photographs.

Crossing the street

Monk's quarters

Very peaceful

Gateway

Congested and colorful

Any trip to Phnom Penh should include the Russian Market, a covered bazaar a large city block in size.  It is very popular with locals, expats and tourists.  It can get congested and sometimes the heat is stifling.  Some of the walkways are also very narrow.

Grocery shopping?

The reward for this is a colorful journey and shopping expedition where practically everything one is interested in buying is available.  From clothing to jewelry to home furnishings to foodstuffs and more are available here.  And the prices are very good.

What do I buy?

The majority of the clothing appears to be genuine branded factory seconds.   But this is not  a bad thing.  Given the pricing, the clothing is a bargain.  Any flaws appear to be minimal and certainly are not obvious.  There does not appear to be much counterfeit clothing here although there is some.

Colorful offerings

Although the goods are nowhere near the variety of the offerings at Jatujak Weekend Market in Bangkok, the variety is more than enough for nearly all shoppers. You will not be disappointed in the variety.

More food

Waiting to cross the street

I decided to spend about an hour at this location, mainly because there was some much activity, so of which might lead to a decent photograph.  I noticed this child just standing around by herself.  She must have been around 7 or 8 years old.  She was all alone with not a parent in sight.  Hard to believe, what with the way the world is these days.  I can not imagine my daughter being outside without an adult.

Eventually she walked across the street and disappeared.

Still waiting

Time to move

Moving

Gone

Family outing

Like the Vietnamese, Cambodians also depend on small motorcycles as an important means of transportation.  Although the traffic in Phnom Penh is nowhere near the congestion in Ho Chi Minh City, it is heavy enough that you have to keep your eyes open.  You will see an entire family on a motorcycle.  Double-click image to enlarge.

Almost ready?

On you go.

Young couple

Blowing in the wind.

Very old man

The chaos

Phnom Penh and Cambodia are some of the most vivid destinations a photographer can visit.  From the Angkor Wat to life on the Tonle Sap, there is plenty to see.

This market was a cacophony of heat, sounds, smells and sights.  Although it was a little overwhelming, mainly because of the heat, it was a phenomenal glimpse of street life in Cambodia.

Closeup

The butcher

Two kramas

Room at The Quay

Phnom Penh (and Cambodia) is a contrast in opposites.  To attract tourists and businessmen, investors have poured lots of money into the service industry and as a result, some of the hotels in Cambodia are as good as hotels anywhere.  As the photo of a room at The Quay shows, the accommodations can be quite comfortable and elegant.

On the flip side, just walk around block from the hotel and you are faced with the other part of Cambodia, people struggling to make a living.

This contrast is more stark from my perspective.  Three weeks ago, I was in Tokyo, a city whose development and social concerns are a far cry from Phnom Penh.  Various NGO’s (non-governmental agencies) are try to make a difference working with the Cambodia government.  There has been progress, but it is fast enough?

In the following photos, the old woman is selling brushes, while the children are selling basil.

Trying to make a sell

Sold

Basil anyone?