Setting the stage – traveling from Phnom Penh, Cambodia to Don Khong, Laos

Prapheng Waterfall on the Mekong River.

The waterfalls and rapids across the countless streams of the Mekong River in Southern Laos are located in one of the richest and most bio-diverse areas in Asia.  And it is always under threat due to the hydroelectric potential of the Mekong.  Several dams have been built in China and in Laos and Cambodia, studies have been completed to determine the feasibility of dams in the Southern reaches of the river.

I believe its only a matter of decades before the Don Khong, Laos to Kratie, Cambodia stretch is dammed and therefore life as we know it on the river will be gone.

Typical river scene.

I had been thinking about making this trip for several years but had only recently decided to make this trip happen.  This area, which is referred to as Siphandon (translated in Lao as 4,000 islands),  can be visited from one of two routes with the northern route from Ubon Rachathani, Thailand through Pakse, Laos being the easiest to make.  You can fly into “Ubon” from Bangkok and then arrange for car, van or bus to journey the rest of the way to Siphandon.  From Ubon, the journey is approximately 300 kilometers.  The highways from the Thai border are quite good in contrast to the roads along the southern route from Phnom Penh, Cambodia to Siphandon.

Sunrise on Don Khong.

As I find Cambodia one of the most enchanting places on Earth for photographs, I decided to take the 700 kilometer southern route.  Through the towns of Kratie, with its endangered Iriwaddy dolphins, to the northern wetlands capital, Stung Trung.  Along the way, there are so many opportunities for photographs that one is never lacking subjects.

Shy Iriwaddy Dolphins, an endangered species, near Kratie.

In the coming weeks, I will be posting photographs of the entire journey, from beginning to end. And back again.

Fisherman with net in foreground. Prapheng Waterfall in back.

Fisherman's ladder bridge in foreground. Sophamit Waterfall in background.

Part 2.Photographic gear to take on upcoming trip to Cambodia and Laos

Cambodian farmer

As noted last weekend, I have a trip planned for next week to visit some areas of Cambodia and Laos that receive very few visitors.  Rather than visiting Angkor Wat and Luang Prabang with its high volume tourists, I have developed an alternate trip.   I will travel overland up the Mekong River from Phnom Penh, Cambodia to Don Khong, Laos.  Between the two points are some of the most spectacular scenery in Southeast Asia.  From the flooded forests of Steng Trung to the waterfalls south of Don Khong, one will be at a loss for words when faced with nature’s beauty.

I have spent the last two weeks, using, testing and evaluating my equipment for this journey.  Space is not an issue, however I wanted to downsize my kit for this trip.  So far, I have decided to bring:

Nikon D700

Nikon D300s

Nikkor AF-D fisheye 16mm lens

Nikkor AF-S 14-24 f/2.8 zoom lens

Nikkor AF-S 24-70 f/2.8 zoom lens

Nikkor AF-S 70-300 f/4.5-5.6 zoom lens

Nikkor AF-D 85mm f/1.4 lens or Sigma 50 EX DG HSM  f/1.4 lens

Hammock time.

Obviously the three zoom lenses were selected so that the focal range from 14mm -450mm (DX 1.5 crop) is covered. I was not so concerned with the 70-300 lens’ lack of wider aperture as much as the weight of my 80-200mm f/2.8 or the 70-200 f/2.8.  I expect the lighting to be sufficient so as not to cause the 70-300 any issues.  The 85mm or the 50mm will come along for their lower light capabilities as a hedge against darker conditions along the water.  And the fisheye solely because I enjoy the results of that lens.

Beyond the cameras and lenses are a whole host of other gear which I will discuss in my next posting.

Photographs were taken with a Nikon D700 and Nikkor AF-D 80-200mm f/2.8 zoom lens and Leica M8 and Summicron 35mm f/2 lens.

Part 1. Planning a trip up the Mekong River – From Phnom Penh to Pakse

Map of Cambodia

Several years ago I began thinking about a trip up (or down) the Mekong River from its source on the Tibetan Plateau 4350 kilometers away from its delta near Ho Chi Minh City in Vietnam.  It’s a river diverse with flora and fauna, sadly under attack by countries along its length for its hydroelectric potential.  Of course “hydroelectric potential” translates into damming the river.

Before the Mekong “disappears” under one dam project after another, I decided that I must see the river.  The upper reaches of the river have been subjugated by dams in China.  The lower reaches are still dam free although for how long is subject to discussion.

I am kicking off this discovery in early February with a leg known for its magnificent waterfalls in southern Laos and the Irawaddy dolphins, a endangered species that still lives in small numbers in this area of the Mekong River. I will be traveling by car from Phnom Penh, Cambodia to Pakse, Laos.  Along the way I intend to tweet my journey and post to this blog.  The objective of the trip is to photograph the waterfalls, the river, and life along the river.

This trip will head north east via highway 7 to Kratie, famous for its small pod of  Irawaddy dolphins, then thru the town of Stung Treng before crossing the border into Laos.  Between the border and Don Khong are the mighty waterfalls that brought the French ambition to travel by ship to interior China to a dead end.

In Part 2 of this series, which I will post in the coming days, I will discuss the equipment I am bringing on this trip.

Sunflowers in Thailand with Nikon D700 – a rainy day.

Sunflowers on a rainy day.

One of the most popular pastimes this time of year is to drive to the Saraburi area 100 km north of Bangkok to look at the planted fields of sunflowers.  I’m talking about sunflower fields that sometimes nearly touch the horizon.  In sunny weather, these flowers broadly open and track the sun from sunrise to sunset.  At night and in less than ideal conditions, the flowers slightly close up so that their appearance isn’t as spectacular.

On this day, there was an uncharacteristic steady fall of rain that detracted from their appearance.  And heavy cloud cover.   However, rain (or water) can add a sheen and a richness in color that can be beautiful.

In sunny weather, you might consider bringing a water mister on your next outing for sunny flower photos.   And water drops can be beautiful.

Photos taken with a Nikon D700 and Nikkor Fisheye AF-D  16mm f2/8 or Nikkor AF-D 85mm f/1.4 lenses. Sunflowers located in the Khao Yai area of Thailand.

Put a little motion in your photos – prefocus and slow speed.

Slow shutter speed guarantees visible motion in street photos.

In the digital age, it’s much easier to experiment and develop your own style.  You take the shot and then you instantly review the results.  Nothing could be easier than that, right?  With super accurate autofocus and precise metering DSLRs, one is in a position to take that perfect shot.  And stopping motion.  Try your hand at something just a bit different.  Try taking a shot where motion is an element of the picture.  In other words, you want to see motion.  It seems unnatural in some ways but you may find yourself taking flawed but still interesting photographs.  And motion-oriented photos do convey a feeling.

These photos were taken a couple of months ago with a Leica M8 and Carl Zeiss Biogon 21mm f/2.8 lens.  I prefocused the camera and set the aperture speed at 1/45 and 1/60 sec.  I shot from the hip, through the viewfinder and then over head.  I can’t guarantee your results but you may find yourself taking photos that will be out of the ordinary.

The "hand-twirled" ice cream maker in motion.

Camera high overhead and prefocused.

Food on face.

Old school look.

More photos with the Nikkor 16mm f/2.8 fisheye lens.

Pass on by.

I’ve having so much fun with this fisheye lens.   For me, it’s important to have a subject in the foreground as it draws the viewer into the photo.  The placement of the subject can be experimented with.  Remember that distortion is less in the center of the frame than the edges  where the barrel distortion becomes obvious.   And the more you shoot, the better your photo becomes.   Ideally this lens is at its sharpest around f/7 and a couple of stops past.

Photos taken with Nikon D700 and Nikkor AF 16mm f/2.8 D fisheye lens.

Grilled pork.

Near and far.

Motorcycle taxi.

Really a Christmas tree.

Nikon D700 with Nikkor AF 16mm f/2.8 fisheye lens in Bangkok

No, the dog is not that LARGE.

Fisheye lenses have always been a bit difficult to figure out and most photographers don’t get beyond the relegation of this type of lens to the “don’t have to have” bin.  With it’s extreme barrel distortion, images take on a look that are far beyond an accurate depiction of the captured scene.  Straight lines on the edges bend and curve to the point that sometimes the lens becomes little more than a novelty act.

Yet fisheyes can be useful in drawing one’s attention to the subject of the photo.  Since distortion isn’t  quite as severe towards the center of the photo, that part of the image can retain a connection to the actual appearance of your target.  With slight distortion still present, it lends a perspective that is familiar yet somewhat different.  It’s in these situations the fisheye is at its best.

Photos taken with a Nikon D700 and Nikkor AF 16mm f/2.8 fisheye lens.

Chinese doughnuts in the round.

Centered on the vendor.

Street vendor.

Plain bagel.

Beautiful architecture – Trident Hotel in Gurgaon, India

View walking from the front portal to reception.

I consider the Trident Hotel in the high-tech Delhi suburb of Gurgaon one of the most beautiful hotels in the world.  From its blend of Arab, Moghul and “Star Wars” (think the planet of Tatooine)  exterior architecture to its richly detailed geometric interior, one is impressed by its use of scale to convey an image of elegance and intimacy.     A visitor is never overwhelmed (and possibly alienated) by the design.  Instead it instantly connects with you.

The Trident Hotel was designed by  Thai architect Lech Bunnag and follows in his tradition of blending traditional ethnic design with avant-garde elements.

Photos taken with a Nikon D700 and Nikkor 14-24mm f/2.8 zoom or Nikkor 24-70mm f/2.8 zoom lens.

Contrasting dome.

Use of light and shadow.

Attention to detail.

Skyward.

Light to dark.

Happy Valley Racecourse at turf level. Great for photos.

Turfside at Happy Valley.

Over the years I’ve spent many a beautiful night at the Happy Valley Racecourse.  However up until a visit in October, I’ve never watched a race from turfside.  I’ve always sat in the expensive upper reaches of the beautiful facility but never in the “cheap” seats.  Let me tell me, the race and its attendant activities are much more enjoyable from this location.  Not only can you view the race from closeup, you are never isolated from the activity like you can be in the upper seats.  And being so close to the action, one can feel the “excitement” in the air.  And for photos, its chockful of subjects to pursue.

All photos taken with a Nikon D700 and Nikkor 14-24mm f/2.8 zoom lens or 24-70mm f/2.8 zoom lens.

Beautiful turf.

Jockey in thought.

Warming up.

Heading for home.

Cool down.

Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum in Phnom Penh, Camboda

Interrogation room at S21 Security Prison.

One of the most emotional sights to visit while in Phnom Penh, Cambodia is the Tuol Sleng Genocide Musuem.  This venue was formerly a high school that was converted by the Khmer Rouge in 1975 to Security Prison “S21″ to house the mainly  middle-class and educated segment of society for interrogation and torture.  The Khmer Rouge believed that educated city-dwellers were exploiters of society and of the working, mainly agrarian, classes.  There was a forced exodus from the cities and larger towns to the countryside.

Those rounded up for interrogation and torture included whole families.  One of the difficult sights at the museum is the photographs of those rounded up and imprisoned.  Not only do you see the frightened faces of men and women, you also see the faces of children.  Beside the photographs, you can view the cells where the victims were imprisoned, torture instruments and human bones including skulls.  Although grotesque in some ways,  the museum is invaluable in making sure we don’t forget what happened thirty years ago.  In depicting gruesome inhumanity, it reminds visitors that we should not be complacent in the face of such crimes against humanity.

Photos taken with a Nikon D700 and Nikkor 24-70mm f/2.8 zoom lens.

Interrogation room at S21 Security Prison.

 

Photos of inmates, tortured and murdered.

Reflection of whom.

Photo exhibition.

 

Makeshift prison cell in classroom.